Many thanks to Meg and Baz at "EVOHE"

The late afternoon sunset over the Mediterranean on the terraces above Praiano.

I feel apart of this space after leaving quit a bit of blood and sweat in these overgrown and long neglected gardens below My mate James's Villa. I've been giving James a hand pruning ancient Olive and Citrus groves and returning some light an energy to the beautiful old gardens, liberating them from thorn covered vines and overgrowth.

One final sunset, a fitting way to say Ciao from Southern Italy. 

Sacred Jewels

Luxury's

When you lug all your travel possessions on your back each and everyday for two months, you calculate down to the item and the ounce. So my two luxury items for my journey were my IPad "travel companion" and a little something special from my friends Meg and Baz at  "Evohe".  I chose there"Repair Moisturizer" as my other luxury item. 800km in 27 days, filled with constant sun and wind,up through the French Pyrenees across the dusty dry open Miseta of Spain and then through green ancient lands of Galicia and finishing in Santiago on the opposite side of the country. Follow that up with a month of travel and hiking in Italy, from Venice and Padova in the north and finally, two weeks of Southern Italian heat, hiking the steep rocky slopes of the Amalfi coast and cooling off in the crystal clear blue waters of the Mediterranean. My IPad Has proved its worth daily and my "Evohe" moisturizer has lasted me the entire two months and having that small personal luxury was for me an essential.

Sacred Jewels

Road trip to secret Ceramic hot spots!

I know my ride doesn't look super hard ass, however the first few hours of narrow winding roads, large buses and the "road rules are optional"Italian drivers was enough to test my nerves.

Amalfi fountain

Nothing like fresh mountain water when your parched!

Positano beach and village centre.

Oh! Did I order pasta again! Mmmmmmmm ok then.

Praiano building site.

You want to do excavation or building work in these hills and you'll need the new Toyota 4WD "Donkey Ute's" seriously!

La Cambusa Ristorante, Positano

This is the site of the wonderful seafood Diner I had in Positano and here is Marco enjoying a quite mid afternoon moment!

"Il Capitano" meets another lesser known Aussie designer.

Positano treasure

This shop is on next years Itinerary, so many unique and beautiful items. The owner who James introduced me to as "IL Capitano" is a warm and very wise gentleman who has lived here all his life and knows all there is to know about the goings on. After hearing I was from OZ "Capitano" asked me if I knew "Maggie Tabra" and pointed out her old house to me. Well I haven't had the pleasure of meeting one of Australia's most famous fashion icons, however it is a small world.

Leaving Positano

Well I'm spinning, travel always has an disorienting effect on me and today will be full on.
I took a Seta Bus from Praiano to Sorrento and then jumped on a train to take me to Naples.
When I arrive in Naples I'll buy a ticket to Rome, hopefully on the fast train. From there one more train ride to Rome airport and then I can relax, put my feet up until my next flight.
I have begun to create what i hope will be great and lasting friendships with wonderful and generous local people in and around Praiano and Positano. All going well I plan to revisit this this area of Italy in September 2013.

Positano

Hi all, sorry for my absence these last few days.
I've been experiencing the underbelly as it were, in getting to know the Amalfi coast. From meeting some of the colourful local personalities to the best places to see, shop and dine. I have been very fortunate to have been given this opportunity and must thank my new Bro from Santa Barbara, "James". Sat at the beach at "Buca De Bacco" trattoria, to watch the "Possi Show" and enjoy fantastic fresh local quisine, I have had my finest culinary experience of any kind thus far at "La Cambusa" resturant with Marco and James, and this place is famous for its seafood. It was a pleasure to meet the wonderful "Julio Gagliano" who works from 4.30am every morning catching the produce of the sea and then all day in his local fish shop and finds time to build two truly elegant holiday Villa's from the ground up, rock by rock with his own hands! Ive sat at the very Shiek "Zagara" cafe with its delightful owner "Mario Russo" and enjoyed great Champagne while listening to live Jazz. Ordered a pair of handmade shoes from Maritsio and Luigi at "Tre Denari"Had handmade Linen shirts made for me from Franco at "Tartana" and gone to the source to see the Ceramics that fill the Boutiques on this coast line. Top that off with the spectacular natural beauty that surrounds you here while you explore the many and often hidden layers that make up the fabric of this historically rich and staggeringly beautiful Southern Italian region. Sensory overload isn't hard to achieve here, however as always the day has its own pulse and if you find this rhythm and go with the flow it always delivers!

Front door is on the roof.

Now that's a nice roof.

Lost in Amalfi

Today I was to catch up with James for a hike and well i got lost.
It took me about 1.20 hours to walk from my home base to Vettica on the outskirts of Praiano,
and I have learnt a valuable lesson when traveling in the Amalfi coast. Never and I mean never leave the main road until you know the area very well. I must have been one hundred meters from James's Villa, that vertical meters! And all I can say is resist the urge to take any little Via or set of steps to go up in the hope of shortening your journey. I ended up above, well above and even below where i wanted to be and once you have taken one wrong turn it will quickly become many. This place is designed like a "Rubix Cube" and I passed the same land marks several times before after 2hours of unrelentingly steep stairs, I found the Villa. Moral of the story is there are no short cuts. You get a real understanding of how hard life is in these beautiful, but extremely steep hillside villages. The simplest tasks are extremely tiring as gravity extracts it's toll on your body when you live in the rocks and everything is built from the rocks. Most materials are moved by hand or by Donkeys and distance measured with the eye is an illusion when your not a bird. Anyway after my accidental 3 hour vertical hike I spent the rest of the afternoon helping James uncover the overgrown terraced gardens below his property. We exposed hidden steps and rock walls and liberated Almond and Citrus trees from thorny vines.
Walked home late afternoon along the main road, had a shower and then walked more bloody steep steps to my local restaurant. Will probably hire a scooter tomorrow to do some sight seeing.

Walking home

Sunset over the mediterranean below Praiano.

The bell looking into the clouds give you some idea how high this church is.

Now that's a front door.

Check out the ceiling.

Sorry about so many pics of this building. But when I look at this all I see is how nice a home I could make this into. And of course some of you can come over on Sunday's

Get ready for sore knees, if you feel the need to chat the traditional way.

Pretty hey!

Inside the Chapel, let me show you around.

I'm the only one here, except for the interesting chap next door under a tree offering drinks for donations for the church. I tell you about him some other time.

Some of the uncovered frescoes discovered in the Chapel.

I told you it was worth the hike! Best view from a church thus far.

The grounds directly in front of the chapel.

Chapel San Dominico

Such a simple lovely church, at last.

Small shrine almost at the top!

San Dominico

Just a few more steps!

Steps leading up up up to the Church at San Dominico.

These bloody things go on and on forever, it's no fun with 7kg on your back.
I think I left home over prepared!

Heading back from Vettica, outside Praiano.

I'm not saying that the path is dangerous, but you just need to be aware of where you put your feet!

Furore

Citrus and Olive terraces in the background.

Furore

View looking out from the village.

Village at Furore

October 14th.

My overseas adventures during this last 18months have never been a walk in the park for me and this morning is like most starts to new days for me while in foreign country's: 1 part fear, 1 part apprehension, a pinch of overwhelm, throw in a sprig of self doubt and bind it all together with a good serving of faith.   I naturally tend to keep pretty much to myself and only appear extroverted when I've established comfortable relationships with people and spaces around me, so being a lone foreign traveler in  new unfamiliar places always challenges my Virgo Rabbit personality traits. This morning I woke early, packed myself a  hearty sandwich, through on my old trusty and very worn "duel Camino" backpack and headed out the door. Anyone that knows me knows that I can get lost in Burleigh Heads if you spin me around so the thought of leaving my little Villa and walking off up or down the myriad of winding roads that cover these hills is somewhat daunting for me. Anyway I came here to experience this place so I centre myself do a little cleanse as per usual when I walk and head off in the direction of Praiano. Hugging the "far to low"! stone walls that stop cars from careering over the edge and into the sea below, I make my way along the main road and turn off into mountains at "Furore". This beautiful picture postcard  village was the site of 1948 Italian movie "Costa Diva" with Roberto Rossellini and Federico Fellini. Im shocked at how quickly my Camino fitness has dropped and after 4000 odd vertical  single lunge size steps the relationship between my Brain and my Gluteus Maximus is no longer simpatico! I reach the top and the trail becomes a winding ancient rocky path snaking its way through the terraced hills that overlook the aqua blue Mediterranean far below. These hills are blanketed with Olive trees and Agave Cactus with its pink-orange fruit and the air is heavy with the  pungent smell caused by the fruit salad of these true locals that liter the ground under foot.

After roads,paths, steps, twists and turns,I'm not quit sure if I'm heading in the right direction at any point, however my constant internal companion whispers my mantra" trust the flow". I reach some Villa's and then more elaborate paths, where i ask directions from what I think is a local man out walking his dog.

It turns out that James and Rocket the dog are from Santa Barbara California and he has been coming to Italy and the coast for 12 years or so.

So as per usual when you trust the flow and face the illusion of fear, in comes the magic. After some forthright conversation that encompasses everything from much needed local knowledge to meta physics and the meaning of life, I realize that James is a kindred spirit and just the bloke I needed to meet. He runs an advent management business in the States and he and his partner are doing up a villa in the outskirts of Praiano. After years in Italy he knows the ins and outs of the coast and is happy to show me around as he has some days that have become free.  So armed with a mud map and directions to continue my hike and visit an amazingly beautiful austere chapel higher up the mountain and the knowledge that yet again the universe has delivered, I head off with a real sense of well being. I'm ringing wet and breathing heavy as I labour up the steep steps that lead to the Chapel of San Dominico, however what awaits me at the top was well worth the effort.

Sacred Jewels 

Conca dei Marini

Goodnight my friends.

Conca dei Marini

High domed ceiling, so Miguel can we pull this off in Tallebudgera Valley!

Conca dei Marini

Simple kitchen, it will have to do!

Conca dei Marini

More!

Conca dei Marini

Lounge room.

Conca dei Marini

My bedroom, I can handle the pink with views like this!

Conca dei Marini

Upstairs bedroom.
Unused for my stay so if you can get here soon, your most welcome!

My backyard at the shack, .Conca dei Marini.

Villa at Conca dei Marini

Lounge room.

Conca dei Marini

Window from upstairs bedroom.

Dessert!

Oh my dear God, "I'm as full as a fat ladies boot".
I'm pissed after my three glasses of Local Rossi and my stomach reached dangerous new capacity loading limits mouthfuls ago.
Tomorrow i will need to be walking many km's to create the space to return to the Wifi and culinary delights of the Restaurant "Le Bonta Del Capo"
So bye for now ( Arrivederci)
Ciao .

Just in case you forget what Sophia Loren looks like!

Conca dei Marini

So here is the view from the side window of the lounge room of my humble abode, not naming names however the White house you see below was owned by Sophia Loren.

Conca dei Marini

Second Course, "god I'm stuffed" but somehow I will find the strength to push through this pain and give a dessert a happy home.

Conca dei Marini

13 October

So today I checkout of touristville and head for the hills to the Villa I have rented just below the Village of "Conca  dei Marini".  Shit what have I got myself into, I can barely speak English how am I going to survive hanging with the true locals who speak there  own dialect. Anyhow it is raining now for the second day and I meet Gianluca, who gives me the keys to the house and drops me off.

I'm told there is a store 10 minutes up the road in the village where i can buy fresh local provisions. So  after walking in the rain up a winding road that can comfortable fit a small Fiat 500,myself and an unloaded donkey, I arrive at the convenience store overflowing with food you can only see on a "Jamie Oliver Italy" cooking show. Fumbling my way through unfamiliar labels and unfamiliar purchasing protocols, i secure ground coffee, fresh crunchy bread, tomatoes that beg the question " where the hell are those evil bastards at Woolworth's hiding these baby's" ,cold meats and my favorite cheese from last years Sicilian experience " Pecorino Siciliano" (or Picurinu Sicilianu in Sicilian) A sheep's cheese mad from ewes milk with a little Chilli added for punch. I return to my "Flash Villa" only getting lost the one time, looking very much like the loaded donkey I mentioned earlier. I spend the afternoon admiring my diggs and working out some basic functionality's. It's 8.00pm and I'm washed and am sporting the best rugged Australian look I can muster, so up the hill I march determined to get into this new experience and take myself for another solo romantic evening at the one and only restaurant at the top of the hill.

"My mother, dear God this is good", (Mio caro dio madre questo è bono).

The bar has just been raised again as far as incredible food goes on this jouney. I've started tonight with a cold beer followed by "Spaghetti of seven  flavours" (Spaghetti di sette  sapori) . Al Dente home made Pasta of course, local tomatoes, garlic, fennel, basil, parsley and god knows what else, it's not my intension to insult the chief with my lack of culinary knowledge in describing this simple but perfectly balanced dish, however I I'm working with limited material here! Second course "My God"(Mio Dio), I've run out of superlatives and I've only been here 10 minutes, it's going to be a long night folks.

I have ordered a local dish of Squid with potatoes that is baked with tomatoes and I have accompanied this with a mixed green salad  (Insalata verde mista) that is so fresh I can still hear the lettuce trying to chat up the pomegranate's.

To be honest, i have had great food before, however I've never experienced food of this quality before and it's a humbling experience for a somewhat semi worldly guy that grew up in Far North Queensland. Oh and yes I'm continuing my non allegiance to White wine with Sea Food and am loving the local Rossi wine. The only Wifi available is at this restaurant so I hope you appreciate the lengths I go to to send you this Blogg, chances are I'm going to put back on all the weight I lost during my hard slog in the Camino.

Sacred Jewels 

Ok that will do, it is truly magnificent.

Positano

Add a dozen or so original masterpieces and you're in business.