Room 103 overlooking the central square.

Washing hanging up and Iodine freshly applied, it's time for lunch and some sight seeing.

Villafranca town square.

Welcome to the hotel San Francisco.

Once again I walked alone and found the perfect 1970's decor 1 star hotel right in the town square. $30.00 instead of $15.00 for a shared Albergue. Hot shower with Bathtub and my own space, I deserve this luxury and have no problems taking advantage of this type of accommodation. I had the lady at front desk ring ahead and book me a single room at a Hostel for tomorrows 31km hike to the most wonderful little village high up in the mountains, called 

O Cebreiro. I was there last year and couldn't find a room as the village is very small and places to stay hard to find. On the French route of the Pilgrim's Route to Santiago de Compostela, O Cebreiro has a Grail some consider to be sacred and others to be miraculous. I'll tell you more later.

Sacred Jewels

Every town has a castle.

Villafranca

Villafranca welcomes me as I reach the outskirts of the village, thank you !

My new pad, don't worry about bringing any vino.

I'll take it!

Today I'm taking it easy and i am about 3km from Villafranca, 24km in all in just under 4.30hours.
It's threatened to rain all day and I'm wasting no time while the the weather builds. I feel in love with this house last year and it was a very special day all round on this section of the Camino.
I'll bore you with a few more photos of this beautiful Home and accompanying vineyard.

Working lunch!

I've sussed out the old city centre of Ponferrada and found a little cafe, again it's just me and the delightful lady behind the bar who can handle my bastardised attempts at Spanish. After poring me the perfect ice cold Cerveza she makes me fresh calamar with Pan and yes I'm converted to great olives!

Miguel have you got your Level, to check the balcony!

Today the walk has taken me up to 1535m / 5000ft past what was the site of a 12th century pilgrims hospital that links this site to the Knights Templar and has been reinvigorated by one lone resident who still performs the temple blessing for the new day and all pilgrims on the path. 32km in all, past the beautiful village of Molinaseca and into the larger city of Ponferrada which is home to a massive Templar Castle.
Please forgive my possible repetition as I'm never sure whether what Ive typed down here may be a repeat of what I've said earlier in the day, to myself, the companions along the days trail or to you on this Blogg.

Entering the old city centre of Ponferrada.

I was one of very few who continued on from Rabanal all the way through to Ponferrada, so with lots of time to myself I found a funky little barbers shop just under the city gates and treated myself to a hot shave and snooze in the barbers chair.
My biggest concern with today's walk was the fact that my feet have been completely drenched for 7 hard hours and as I've told you before the key to no blisters is to keep the feet dry by changing socks every two hours. That concept lasted moments after my first dry change was into water logged boots. After arriving in my room and preparing for my daily fully clothed shower, You know" two birds one stone" hot shower/washing machine combo. I was afraid to remove my shoes and look at the damage, Well I think I'm looking at a couple of Octopus that have been beaten against the rocks in one if the Greek islands to ready them for lunch.

The Templars Castle in Ponferrada.

Fancy a walk through the vineyards?

Renovators delight!

Amazing how these dwelling are constructed and last for centuries, however they would never be passed by our building codes for homes that will be lucky to last 50years!

Molinaseca

Entering Molinaseca after 26km in 5.30hours of extreme steep slippery hills and even more challenging descents. This is another charming village and I stayed here last year and would highly recommend it to anyone wishing to take on the Camino, however I've decided to push on to Ponferrada another 10km up the road to give me a short day tomorrow.

Ancient trees

This is a rarity on the walk with most of the large trees having disappeared many years ago, there is a small grove on the decent that has 4 huge incredibly beautiful ancient trees sitting together defying Time and progress to stand untouched.

Manjarin

Another special place can be found at the top of this freezing cold and wet trek, with a warm fire to thaw out your hands and hot drinks and biscuits available, again all by donation.

Puerto Irago / Cruz de Ferro

This monument stands some 1504m or 4934ft above sea level with its simple iron cross which has become one of the very important symbols of the Camino. When you reach the top it is at this point that you reconnect with the purpose of your journey before adding your stone or other token of love and blessing to the ever increasing pile that bares witness to those that have travelled this road before you. I have chosen a stone from the path earlier in the day and have carried it for this purpose. Last year I was struggling with chronic tendinitis in my ankle and this walk put me in touch with some anger that's for sure. I wanted so much to have the right words to say when I reached the top after such a long and difficult journey and it didn't flow for me then. I didn't expect to ever be at this place again and timing is everything,right! I have known for a little while now the answer to "what is my driving force and overall desire" and with this clear for me i was available in the moment of this experience every step.

The highest point of the Camino

Today I left Rabanal behind at 7.15am, it was still dark at 8.00 and the wind was bitting with steady rain for company. I head through the Irago pass this morning which is the highest point of the entire Camino and requires some concentration when it is dark and wet. This mornings walk will test some however it is the steep decent where most injuries accur. The ground is very rocky with spurs of shale like rock outcrops lining the walking track which is now narrowing to a meter in places with low vegetation and running water everywhere.

Gratitude

Today was one of those days where I remember why I follow the clues that present themselves to me and know that there is a reason and hidden opportunity presented in every experience. I feel very grateful to the people who are my constant mirror, who reflect both my light and my dark, my happilly realised self as well as my unresolved self. Over the last week I have had some challenging experiences including my bed bug saga that have been the catalyst in pushing me back into myself long enough for me to reconnect. Today walking alone still floating from yesterday's efforts I remembered how much of a loner I really am at heart and how much I need times of quite to hear my self, my inner voice that is very light and soft but integral to my function and happiness. I need very much the company of people and the sharing and connecting we give each other, however finding that balance between time spent with my relationship with myself and with people I care for is not always an easy equation for me. Today i walked in silence at times and at other times I put ear phones in and played music to keep my mind busy while I literally dropped down into myself and chatted away with that illusive inner voice. All the while marvelling at the clarity, the confirmations and answers of prior questioning and idears that pop in and out of my mind while I'm not in my head blocking the path of these gifts of Spirit.
Ok, enough of my rambling for one day.

Rabanel beauty.

Needs a little work, but the potential.

Typical home in Rabanel.

I take it!

Everyday "No Chupito's "

Wonderful Spanish people from Madrid. While having lunch by myself and blogging to you today, Cham and his companions asked me to join them during desert and proceeded to pay for my lunch. Fortunately I found them a little later as they were about to move on and we shared some Chupito's together purely for digestive benefits! You know.

My diggs, are the luxury of simple comforts.

Arriving in Rabanel.

The charming village of Rabanel.

Terrain changing as we head into the mountains.

Breakfast stop on the way to Rabanel.

Gaudi museum in Astorga.

Astorga Cathedral in the distance.

Astorga

Astorga in the background below and a welcome bed after my first 50km day.

The last lemonade in the wilderness.

This is an amazing guy called David who spends his time holding this space for pilgrims all year round. This was an oasis in the desert for me with another hard hour of walking before reaching Astorga. This like many other unique places along the Camino function on donation only to survive and be of service.

Chapel

Interesting symbols painted on the ceiling of the Chapel!

A little atmosphere yes!

Village of Rabanal del Camino

For me the best of the Camino is in this last 250km as we leave the expansive openness and head up into the mountainous regions where the energy assists you as you walk rather than the heaviness of being close or beside the main highways. The terrain has changed dramatically since leaving Astorga this morning and the vegetation has become more dense and the paths narrower and rockier as I arrive in Rabanal. Sitting in a charming restaurant in the foyer of my Hostel after a long exuberant hot shower with no regard or trace of guilt for water consumtion. I now have time to talk to you at my Leasure over a three course Pilgrims lunch. This feels as intimate as if you were sitting in the chair beside me, so let me walk you through our lunch. The room is quite with the slightest echo of other pilgrims discusing there daily experiences with new friends, the floor is terracotta, the walls rough stone, the ceiling is heavy timber beams darkened by time and age. First course is a very taste vegetable soup, beans, potatoe, some cabbage and i suspect a hint of churrizo in the base flavour with a freshly baked local bread and a jug of (Vino Tinto) a light red wine that doesn't leave you feeling heavy. Second course is my daily favorite, a nice piece of tender veal working in harmony with hand cut chips, you know "Irish Salad". Nothing to complicated, just good fuel for the tanks readying themselves for tomorrows journey. I'm in heaven and have plenty of time to relax and enjoy this charming village. Third course is my choice day after day, as i'm a man of simple tasts and when i find something thats i like i stick to it. So no surprises for anyone that i choose to try the Cream Caramel or Flan each and everyday on the Camino. A simple egg based desert with its slightly burnt citrus-caramel source mmmmmmmm. Tonight there is a service in an ancient chapel across the square from my room and as much as I'm not often driven to enter the numerous churches that are central to the path of the Camino, this is a must see experience. The reason I strongly suggest this is that the local Benedictine monks hold the service in the most beautiful chapel, simple and honest in appearance and incredibly ancient and the service is all in Gregorian chanting.

Camino reborn!

It's a mystery how energy appears when you least expect it and with almost no sleep to recharge during "the night of the big itch" I wasn't expecting an easy day. Started off at 6.30am in the darkness and headed past the incredibly beautiful and exclusive Parador Hotel and out of Leon.
I was having such a great day walking by myself that i swallowed up 50km in 9 hours, moving between 5.5 - 7 km an hour. My body was in some discomfort however my heart and soul were soaring like an eagle and just kept walking past my reserved Albergue and continued on to Astorga. The last 16km was much harder than the first 34km as I was walking and leaning into a 30+ km head wind.

Retro Hotel in Leon

I booked an old Retro hotel in Leon because they usually have a bath tub whereas the new modern hotels only have showers. I need to take all my clothing out, wash everything in hot water and fumigate everything including my backpack to kill all the Chinches (bed bugs). These groovy digs even have an original Picasso in the lobby, not bad for $44.00 a night.
Got 1.30 hours sleep last night, my feet and legs are swollen and the itchiness is insatiable.
The only relief is taking scolding hot showers throughout the night.

Gaudi Building Leon

This shop is as old as European settlement in Australia!

Private hospital, not to shabby!

Took a trip,to the local hospital in the old city in Leon and had the doctor open all the insect bite blisters and check for infection. All good, loaded up with Antibiotics and ready to visit the most amazing chemist shop to fill my shopping list.

Blood suckers attack Aussie!!!

500km and not a blister or injury and two bad nights with bed bugs and I have dozens of blisters under and between my toes and running up to my thighs! These little creatures are brutal and the bits form weeping blood blisters the moment you scratch them. Ive spent the arfternoon washing all my cloths, fumigating my backpack and covering myself with Iodine.

Leon Cathedral

Hi all, I have so much to catch up on with you.
The last week has been very hectic with early starts and so many people arriving in the Albergue's. I would think that there is at least double the travelers this season and as a result it has taken longer for people to connect and form into harmonious groups. The large numbers have made it more of a race at times to secure accommodation from town to town and this detracts from the essence of committing to the Camino. It's so important to find your rhythm and feel the pulse of the day, as this is where the little surprises and moments of magic sit in waiting.
I'm feeling that I will change course soon and pull out of the group as a routine has formed and I'm finding less and less time for myself and my Camino! It's wonderful to see friendly faces everyday as you arrive in the villages and cities that dot the route along the French Way, however the daily socializing is costing me precious time that I need to stay centered and enjoy being the observer. I will make time soon to catch up on some of the journey with you and add some photos of the last week.

Would you trust this man!

If you meet this man on the Camino and He offers to dance Flamenco for you, run for life.
But seriously Esteban is a great guy and good mate to me from last year who has given up a week to walk with me again.

Leaving Burgos for the Meseta's, still dark at 6.30am.

No chipito!

Since Iñaki arrived on the scene we have returned to the tradition of having Tupito's after every meal. There is nothing enjoyable about this paint stripper pretending to be a liqueur, other than its possible ability to bring on a deeper sleep!

You get some idea!