Village of Rabanal del Camino

For me the best of the Camino is in this last 250km as we leave the expansive openness and head up into the mountainous regions where the energy assists you as you walk rather than the heaviness of being close or beside the main highways. The terrain has changed dramatically since leaving Astorga this morning and the vegetation has become more dense and the paths narrower and rockier as I arrive in Rabanal. Sitting in a charming restaurant in the foyer of my Hostel after a long exuberant hot shower with no regard or trace of guilt for water consumtion. I now have time to talk to you at my Leasure over a three course Pilgrims lunch. This feels as intimate as if you were sitting in the chair beside me, so let me walk you through our lunch. The room is quite with the slightest echo of other pilgrims discusing there daily experiences with new friends, the floor is terracotta, the walls rough stone, the ceiling is heavy timber beams darkened by time and age. First course is a very taste vegetable soup, beans, potatoe, some cabbage and i suspect a hint of churrizo in the base flavour with a freshly baked local bread and a jug of (Vino Tinto) a light red wine that doesn't leave you feeling heavy. Second course is my daily favorite, a nice piece of tender veal working in harmony with hand cut chips, you know "Irish Salad". Nothing to complicated, just good fuel for the tanks readying themselves for tomorrows journey. I'm in heaven and have plenty of time to relax and enjoy this charming village. Third course is my choice day after day, as i'm a man of simple tasts and when i find something thats i like i stick to it. So no surprises for anyone that i choose to try the Cream Caramel or Flan each and everyday on the Camino. A simple egg based desert with its slightly burnt citrus-caramel source mmmmmmmm. Tonight there is a service in an ancient chapel across the square from my room and as much as I'm not often driven to enter the numerous churches that are central to the path of the Camino, this is a must see experience. The reason I strongly suggest this is that the local Benedictine monks hold the service in the most beautiful chapel, simple and honest in appearance and incredibly ancient and the service is all in Gregorian chanting.